Why We Love Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid is a naturally occurring substance in the skin. In skincare, it stands out for its exceptional moisture-binding capability. It's a humectant, meaning it grabs moisture from the environment and holds it within the skin. This property is vital for long-lasting skin hydration, especially in humid climates.

However, as we age, our natural reserves of HA diminish, leading to drier, less supple skin. Topical HA products step in as a crucial intervention, helping to replenish this lost hydration and maintain the skin's resilience against aging.

HA is a potent moisturizer...

Unlike other similar molecules, HA has a unique structure that allows allows it to freely exist in the dermis (the middle layer of our skin) to effectively maintain moisture levels, keeping the skin looking full and smooth. Additionally, HA can also boost the performance of other ingredients in a skincare routine, making it a valuable addition to products designed to work synergistically.

...but not all HA is made equally.

HA's benefits are partially determined by the size of its molecules. Smaller HA molecules go deeper, hydrating from the inside out, which can help with skin repair and reducing the appearance of fine lines. A study highlighted a significant reduction in wrinkle depth when a cream with 0.1% low-molecular-weight HA was applied, underscoring its anti-aging potential. Larger molecules stay on the surface, keeping moisture from escaping and giving an immediate smoothing effect.

Caveat

In dry conditions, HA can potentially dehydrate the skin by pulling moisture out instead of in. To prevent this, it's best to pair your HA with thicker products containing ingredients which create a barrier—like oils or butters—to keep moisture sealed in.

Final Thoughts

Incorporating HA into your skincare can visibly improve skin hydration and resilience. For targeted results, look for products that specify the molecular weight of HA, and consider your climate and skin type when choosing products for the best outcome.

Sources

Aruffo A, Stamenkovic I, Melnick M, Underhill CB, Seed B. CD44 is the principal cell surface receptor for hyaluronate. Cell. 1990;61(7):1303-1313.

Bourguignon LY, Ramez M, Gilad E, et al. Hyaluronan-CD44 interaction stimulates keratinocyte differentiation, lamellar body formation/secretion, and permeability barrier homeostasis. J Invest Dermatol. 2006;126(6):1356-1365.

Culty M, Miyake K, Kincade PW, Sikorski E, Butcher EC, Underhill C. The hyaluronate receptor is a member of the CD44 (H-CAM) family of cell surface glycoproteins. J Cell Biol. 1990;111(6 Pt 1):2765-2774.

Ghersetich I, Lotti T, Campanile G, Grappone C, Dini G. Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrinsic aging. Int J Dermatol. 1994;33(2):119-122.

Underhill C. CD44: the hyaluronan receptor. J Cell Sci. 1992;103(Pt 2):293-298.